The Hazel Smith Sequoia at Frelinghuysen Arboretum in Morris Plains, NJ got a trim sometime between late 2003 and when this picture was taken in March 2004. Most of the lower branches were removed, revealing the lower trunk and the side over the path was trimmed (left-side of image) since the path was becoming very narrow. They may also be topping the tree, but it is hard to tell. The tree appears very healthy, though it was better looking before the big shave. A later trip revealed that it is producing some cones and there is a small leader poking out the top.

Tests were conducted during the 2003-2004 winter to determine how to store seedlings. It was already known that seedlings can survive without light while dormant but questions concerning root temperatures needed addressing. Here seedlings were in tubes protected somewhat with tube insulation material 1/2" thick. The seedling in the unprotected tube did not survive the winter, indicating that root temperatures should not be allowed to fall to 19°F. More protected seedlings were still damaged (left two), indicating that their cold hardiness was not good enough and that root temps should not be allowed to fall below 25°F. Seedling on right was unharmed and must be more cold hardy than others. The surviving 2003 seedling was later planted outside and is very slow growing.

Seedling "S" from 2002 was well protected by packaging "peanuts" in a box from temps that went to 19°F in an unheated attached garage and survived without harm. This was its second winter in the garage. It has since been repotted (see below). It might be an unusually cold hardy specimen as well. Growers are advised to maintain temps above 25°F for the duration of the winter. Storage in a cool, dark location indoors is also possible. Water infrequently outdoors. Weekly but lightly indoors. Seedlings in tubes can survive being left indoors near a cool window. Plastic pots are not recommended.

The 2004 crop of seedlings, seen here in July 2004, were also planted directly outdoors in May in a mound of leaf mold. This is a pile of chopped up leaves (very little grass), left to overwinter in a mulch pile. By spring the pile is fairly well broken down with excellent moisture characteristics. It works much better than peat, top soil or mineral soil for germination success and seedling survival. Seeds need to be cold soaked for around three weeks first. Chopped up leaves breakdown much faster than whole leaves and have better drainage. Seeds germinated directly by sowing just under the surface. A handful of survivors by summer's end were disease free. Watch out for deer and other wildlife. They got stepped on but survived. A cage helps. Pile is about 6" deep. This is an easy technique for planting a tree in a final location. Will attempt to duplicate success in 2005. There was one survivor from this pile that made it through the winter, indicating that 1 in 3 seedlings will survive their first winter outside. It grew extremely well in 2007 and is always protected from wildlife in a cage.

Here is seedling "S" from 2002, the last seedling alive from that year, happily ensconced in its new, much larger, pot in May 2004. Soil consistency was maintained. Tree doubled in size by end of summer, though it should be planted in the ground next spring or summer. No cuttings taken this year. Maybe next year. This tree was later donated to a local rescue squad and planted in very heavy clay soil where it continues to grow behind fencing as of late 2007. Enormous trunk growth in 2007 but little height growth. Has been watered by hand during dry spells.